We also offer the movement with the dial and the hands, to use this unit on the Schatz Royal Mariner movement that is no longer in production. However I am aware that the vast majority of the traditional cleaners will strip the lacquer off too, which compounds the still assembled issue.ĭo I strip and clean as usual? But this then throws up the issue of the chiming train and it’s ludicrous ways. The clock will be problem free right away instead of months, last longer than a overhaul and comes with a warranty. I have had another cross the bench and I am very reluctant to strip and clean, so I was thinking of cleaning it whilst it’s in one lump and using a pressurised cleaner to blast the crud from around the pinions. Getting the striking train in synchronisation has got me stumped. I have another one that I nievely stripped down, stripped off the lacquer and reassembled lovingly. I ended up using a 9/16' x 0.015' x 78' MS-294 loop end spring cutting off the loop end and making it into a hole end and shortening it a few inches so it would fit in the barrel. However the royal mariner’s mechanism is quite a pig to set up on the striking train and the main plates are lacquered. My Schatz ships bells clock is a 1958 model and I believe there were some small differences in the newer versions. Now tradition dictates that to clean a movement fully, it needs to be in bits. I have a Schatz Royal Mariner that is utterly filthy and in desperate need of a clean. I have an odd cleaning issue I need some help with. I’m totally new to here, but not as new when it comes to clock repairs.
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